Lake Louise was a bit of a disappointment! We had decided to take the Icefields Parkway north from Lake Louise to Jasper – the whole thing. So we drove from Golden to Lake Louise in the early morning – so as to see it before everyone else got the same good idea. But alas, several kilometers before the lake traffic controllers started showing up in their yellow vests, and soon we found ourselves in a long queue of busses, cars and motorcycles. I got out of the car to ask where the exit might be, we wanted to turn back, but was shouted back into the car – one would have thought we were in a dangerous place!
To cut a long story short, we did finally reach the exit – the carpark was completely filled up already and everything around the lake was chaos, or so it seemed to us – and that is exactly why we try to avoid the main tourist sites and go for the lonely roads! I am quite certain that the lake is exceptionally beautiful, or all those people would not have been there, but that must wait till another fine day.
Beautiful was also the Icefields Parkway stretching though the Rocky Mountains – even the clouds and the rain could not take that away from it. It is said the be the highest and most wondrous road in Canada – 240 kilometers of such imposing landscapes that it takes your breath away – and even becomes slightly trivial in all its beauty and majesty.
Let me take you through in pictures and maybe you will go yourself one day – who knows where life will take us. On this day it took us – and hundreds of others – through the most breathtaking of scenery – and thank you Canada for preserving it so well.
The water
The mountains
The glaciers
The Athabasca Falls
Note the brown trees in the background. Unfortunately many trees in the park have been infected with the pine beetle and are dying out. But that may just be a way with nature – new life will hopefully spring from the earth after these trees are gone.
Potholes suspended on the sides of the canyon. Small particles of sand have drilled these holes over thousands of years as with a fine diamond drill.
Alpine like growth on the walls of the canyon…
The others
Wild life
As always the guidebooks promise more than they can fulfill. The only wildlife we saw was this wildlife bridge and an elk cow posing for a photographer on a field outside Jasper.
We drove out of Vancouver on a bright and sunny day – heading for Osoyoos on the border to the US. Osoyoos is said to be the warmest place in Canada and one jokingly says that it is the top end of the Mexican desert. We had originally planned to go wine tasting in the Okanogan Valley and Osoyoos was to have been the entrance point. However, we changed our minds about the wine tasting in this most famous of the Canadian wine regions – and decided instead to go further east and drive up into the Kootenay area bordering on the Rocky Mountains.
We did stay one night in Osoyoos on our way to The West Kootenays – and we did also do one wine tasting at a very interesting vineyard. It is one of the only vineyards fully owned and managed by a First Nation people (and reportedly the first in North America) the Nk´Mip, and it is furthermore one of the best in the valley. The wines we tasted were excellent and we were impressed by the ingenuity and hard work having been put into this coop, The Nk´Mip Cellars, which produces almost a fourth of all the grapes grown in BC.
A view over the wine fields and the Okanogan river…
Horse grazing among the sage bushes…
But I have digressed, we were heading to the Kootenays, a region in the southeast corner of British Columbia, which derives its name from the Kutenai Nation who named the river after their tribe. This region is cut in half length-wise by the Durcell mountain range and we drove up into the west side – which is dotted with small mining towns set on the shores of glacier fed lakes and settled by miners and smelters mining silver, lead and zinc. We stayed for a couple of days and drove around in the region – for the benefit and patience of my readers I have chosen only two sights on which I will comment.
Sandon
Far into the mountains lie several ghost towns – old silver mining towns from the heyday of when silver was discovered in the Selkirk Mountains around 1890. Sandon is one of such towns and it was the unofficial capitol of the region in the booming days of the silver mines. At its peak in the 1890s it boasted a population of around 5-10,000 people with 24 hotels and as many saloons – and a train station. It was the first town in BC to be fully electrified by using power from the mountain streams. Sandon was almost totally destroyed by a flood in 1955.
We drove up into the valley of Slocan to see the town. Today it is but a ghost of its former glory. A few buildings still stand and are inhabited by only four people.
This lady was, as she said, a fourth of the population of Sandon….
….she and her partner, who was born in the town, have bought up the remaining houses and are trying, against all odds, to maintain the place for future generations.
Old busses brought up from around the region…
The owner has rejuvenated the old power station and it is running again supplying the nearby town of New Denver with some of its electricity…
The actual mines were situated higher up in the mountains and some are said to still be accessable. We tried to drive up, but the narrow road was too steep and full of rocks, so we had to turn back. I am sure that they can be reached by foot by any nimble visitor, should you pass here by chance one day.
Nikkei Internment Memorial Center
I guess that the display board in front of the center says it all. In these remote regions of BC thousands of Japanese were interned under WW2. They were thought to be a potential threat, even though many, many of them (75%) were Canadian citizens and had worked hard in the fishing industry and on the railways. About 22,000 were stripped of their civil rights and labeled as “enemy aliens”. They were forced from their coastal homes and interned in different areas in this region, in Alberta, Manitoba and Ontario. Some were sent to POW camps. Some were sent back to Japan.
In 1988 the government issued an official apology and token monetary compensation for property losses suffered at the time.
The Kyowakai ( “working together peacefully) Society first met in 1943 on this site in New Denver in the Kootenays. This is the only internment organization still in operation and it has restored and maintained this small center, which is situated on the original site of one of the camps.
Numbers…
The confiscated Japanese fishing fleet…
…and people waiting to be transported away from their homes…
Original buildings…
…inside one of the family houses..
The Peace Arch erected by internees in 1945 – the arch itself is a welcome and the fence linking it together symbolizes the links between all peoples…
The Japanese garden surrounding the buildings – Heiwa Teien ( peace garden) – was designed by Roy Tomomichi Sumi who was himself a former internee. It is designed in a Past, Present, Future theme and is meant to create a meditative mood in the visitor – which it does!
There are never words to describe what suffering humans bring upon each other. The story told here is as old as humanity itself and it still takes place in various parts of the world. Hate, envy, angst – all of these emotions drive us out of the garden and into a chaos of trying to eradicate the otherness of our fellow human beings – a Peace Garden is a small but necessary reminder, that it does not have to be this way – it is a choice.
This journey starts on the west coast of Canada in a city on the Pacific Ocean, in British Columbia, in Vancouver. We had two days to see something or anything of this vibrant and interesting city. What can you possibly do in 2 days with jetlag running through your system – in a city with so much to offer that you go dizzy at a mere glance at the guidebook. But as the travelers that we are we pulled ourselves together and did a “walkabout” – diligently choosing 3-4 things within walking distance of Vancouvers West End.
Stanley Park
Vancouver is a green city, a young city, a city of immigrants, minorities, big business and bicycles. It is also for walkers – and walkers have plenty to walk to and for. City planners and politicians have made good choices for human habitat in this city. One of them is Stanley Park, another is the water – the sea, the bay, the lakes and ponds – all of which is made easy for walkers and other soft targets in traffic to get around in. Another stroke of genius is the way that the tall skyscrapers fit into this haven of green and blue. The windows are tinted a greenish blue by law so as to reflect the surrounding water.
To the north of the West End stands the enormous Stanley Park with its ponds, its walking and cycling paths, the boat societies and clubs, its temperate rainforest, the totem poles as a tribute to the native Canadians and the spectacular views on all of the surrounding sides of the park.
This is North America´s largest city park. With an area of 404 hectares it is slightly bigger than Central Park in New York – and it is the heart and lungs of Vancouver. However it does, as does much of the two great Americas, have a darker history than all the beauty which meets the eye of the traveler today. The Indian tribe originally living here was exterminated by chicken pox brought in by the white man, and the village houses on the land were torn down when the park was created. Tribute is payed to this darker past by the erection of the famous collection of totem poles at the eastern end of the park.
Water to the west
Water to the east
Water to the north
Note the yellow sulphur and the red Danish ship! Grouse mountain was unfortunately covered in clouds.
Totem poles from the surrounding forests. They are one of the most visited sites in all of British Columbia.
A volunteer guide at the gates –
Animated by the beauty of the totem poles, we wanted to explore the history of the First Nation art in Vancouver and came upon the name of Bill Reid. Bill Reid came late to his art, he was a radio host at CBC radio in the 50´s before he started to discover the past of his mother’s tribe, Haida, on the Queen Charlotte Islands. His grandfather was here a renowned wood carving artist and in time Reid became the most well known Haida artist in Canada. The small Bill Reid gallery lies across from the imposing Vancouver Art Gallery.
Bill Reid Gallery of Northwest Coast Art
Reid created totem poles…
…and jewelry in silver and gold
He painted on cloth…
…and made large bronze wall sculptures, this one depicting what is created from of the tongues of man…
A smaller version in onyx of Reids perhaps most famous carved sculpture The Raven and the First Men – the legend of the creation of the first human beings being “born” out of of a giant shell and coaxed into the world by the raven – the raven being one of the most powerful symbols of strength in the Haida legends. Whether humans were born out of the sea or emerged from the dust of the earth is a matter of belief – this sculpture makes its own powerful statement. The larger original in yellow cedar can be seen in front of The Museum of Anthropology.
After this artful experience we walked down to the harbor….
….and took one of the small colorful ferries over to the food market on
Granville Island
Granville Island was once full of another kind of business – coal storage, cement plant and a ship yard. Most of this disappeared in the 1970´s and today only parts of the cement plant is left. The rest of the buildings were converted into arts and crafts, theaters, restaurants and a large food market.
The cement plant
Color and crafts
Food
…..pasta galore
… and gay cakes
….and last but not least a taxi driver having lunch – and no, you are not in India, you are in Canada!
Davie Village
Back on the mainland we decided to go through the gay quarter of Vancouver – complete with pink busstops and rainbow colored crosswalks.
Steps leading up to….
….this exotic restaurant
….and alas yes, there are more and more homeless people in Vancouver. It is green, it is blue, it is multicolored, but maybe that does not matter to everyone, at least not to this man sleeping among the hearts in the gayest part of town.
We end the walkabout back in the West End, and also our two days in Vancouver, on a smiling note – the popular bronze sculptures A-maze-ing Laughter by Yue Minjun. As an inscription on one of the benches states: May this sculpture inspire laughter, playfulness and joy in all who experience it.
